Most of you know that I'm fortunate to have 2
dads. But you may not know that they are both musicians. One a percussionist
and the other, a saxophonist. When I was little my percussionist dad
played the canga drums. The sound he produced would rattle my organs when
played fast and intensely. Or its deep and rich sound could connote passion,
sadness or love. But usually they made me want dance to the rhythm much like
when you watch dancers of salsa or meringue. He played mostly because my
grandfather, who pastored a small church, required the participation of my
father and his sibling in service to our Lord and Savior...
Eventually the intense rhythmic pounding
faded. I grew up and moved on with new life never learning to play. I was
reminded of the experience during a post birthday celebration of my own which
included ushering in the new year in the Bahamas. Escaping to warmer climates
and evading the blistery, bone chilling yet arid weather--priority #1. The
pick—the Bahamas, specifically the island of Nassau for Junkanoo Cultural
Festival.
But first, "let me explain"
Junkanoo (in my Kevin Hart voice). This is THE national festival of the Bahamas
and its roots began as a celebration by the slaves who were transported to the
Bahamas. Under British law, slaves in British colonies were given a
three-day holiday at Christmas. Legend has it that the slaves attempted to
decorate themselves by sticking materials found in their environment--paper and
feathers, onto their clothes. Through the centuries, the Bahamian’s shear
ingenuity allowed their costumes to always reflect the availability of
materials in the society. From the feathers and scraps of the plantation, their
costumes grew through a variety of materials: plant life, straw work, sponge,
newspaper, tissue paper, and finally to the crepe paper of today in every color
in the spectrum.
These intricately designed costumes—think of
mega floats in any parade, may be as tall as fifteen feet, and are worn by 2-3
men for the entire parade, dancing for for miles. Smaller costumes may only
require 1 person to wear and move. Entire teams may be comprised of 150 to 2500
people.
This is a battle of will, strength, creative
design, music prowess and stamina. The music is historically centered around
the traditional cowbells [which were originally used because of their
availability on the plantations], and the goatskin drum, which is a staple
African instrument. Only the Bahamians have grown Junkanoo to such a richly
complex spectacle.
While for some the Junkanoo is a chance to eat, drink and
play in the sun, for me, it was much, much more. Its the sweet communion with
the history, culture, and the people of the Bahamas. It is an unbelievable
sight to watch the teams (which are more like contemporary tribes) in a mass
processesion swaying down Bay Street beating their drums, hearing the fullness
of the horns, and the time being kept by those cowbells. Combine that with
magnificent colors and keen attention to detail for costumes large and
small—we're talking extreme sensory overload! I was immediately transported
back to that excited 5-year-old girl with ponytail braids, dancing to the
cangas.
It shook something inside of me and everyone next to me
inciting dancing, shouting and even jumping in the bleachers. It's church. It's
the finest display of national pride. It’s the spirit of ancestors eveloping
everyone. It’s the feeling of creation through sight and sound. But most
importantly, for three hours in the middle of the night it was the Bahamian
celebrating themselves. The crowd wasn't overrun with tourist-surprising in comparison
to the Bahamas' neighboring islands. No this special time called home natives
near and far. I was a fortunate soul to be present for this holy communion. Not
a bad way to bring in the new year.
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