Saturday, January 12, 2019

A Religious Experience



Most of you know that I'm fortunate to have 2 dads. But you may not know that they are both musicians. One a percussionist and the other, a saxophonist. When I was little my percussionist dad played the canga drums. The sound he produced would rattle my organs when played fast and intensely. Or its deep and rich sound could connote passion, sadness or love. But usually they made me want dance to the rhythm much like when you watch dancers of salsa or meringue. He played mostly because my grandfather, who pastored a small church, required the participation of my father and his sibling in service to our Lord and Savior...



Eventually the intense rhythmic pounding faded.  I grew up and moved on with new life never learning to play. I was reminded of the experience during a post birthday celebration of my own which included ushering in the new year in the Bahamas. Escaping to warmer climates and evading the blistery, bone chilling yet arid weather--priority #1. The pick—the Bahamas, specifically the island of Nassau for Junkanoo Cultural Festival. 


But first, "let me explain" Junkanoo (in my Kevin Hart voice). This is THE national festival of the Bahamas and its roots began as a celebration by the slaves who were transported to the Bahamas. Under British law, slaves in British colonies were given a three-day holiday at Christmas. Legend has it that the slaves attempted to decorate themselves by sticking materials found in their environment--paper and feathers, onto their clothes. Through the centuries, the Bahamian’s shear ingenuity allowed their costumes to always reflect the availability of materials in the society. From the feathers and scraps of the plantation, their costumes grew through a variety of materials: plant life, straw work, sponge, newspaper, tissue paper, and finally to the crepe paper of today in every color in the spectrum. 





These intricately designed costumes—think of mega floats in any parade, may be as tall as fifteen feet, and are worn by 2-3 men for the entire parade, dancing for for miles. Smaller costumes may only require 1 person to wear and move. Entire teams may be comprised of 150 to 2500 people. 




This is a battle of will, strength, creative design, music prowess and stamina. The music is historically centered around the traditional cowbells [which were originally used because of their availability on the plantations], and the goatskin drum, which is a staple African instrument. Only the Bahamians have grown Junkanoo to such a richly complex spectacle. 


While for some the Junkanoo is a chance to eat, drink and play in the sun, for me, it was much, much more. Its the sweet communion with the history, culture, and the people of the Bahamas. It is an unbelievable sight to watch the teams (which are more like contemporary tribes) in a mass processesion swaying down Bay Street beating their drums, hearing the fullness of the horns, and the time being kept by those cowbells. Combine that with magnificent colors and keen attention to detail for costumes large and small—we're talking extreme sensory overload! I was immediately transported back to that excited 5-year-old girl with ponytail braids, dancing to the cangas.
It shook something inside of me and everyone next to me inciting dancing, shouting and even jumping in the bleachers. It's church. It's the finest display of national pride. It’s the spirit of ancestors eveloping everyone.  It’s the feeling of creation through sight and sound. But most importantly, for three hours in the middle of the night it was the Bahamian celebrating themselves. The crowd wasn't overrun with tourist-surprising in comparison to the Bahamas' neighboring islands. No this special time called home natives near and far. I was a fortunate soul to be present for this holy communion. Not a bad way to bring in the new year. 

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